Comparison Between LED Strips Made of SMD3528 & SMD5050
3528 and 5050 patch, which are among the most Belts are two types of chips, it is necessary to distinguish which one is used in each case, as this will affect the price, but in performance, of course. So, their characteristics and different?
SMD LED 3528 is a medium soft output, low-heat LED chips. In the 5300 meter reels they are generally between the chip 120 to 220lm / m (pure white), which is enough to project a level of about 300 millimeters, or even light from there to install (1 '). Some vendors provide ultra-white version, can provide up to 360lm / m for this type of LED chip area, the average power consumption of 5W / m, however, provide a higher density of large firms also scroll, 5 meters per roll of 600 chips, which provide up to 440lm / m (pure white), which can even be higher 720lm / ultra-white version with the manufacturer meters. In this case, the power consumption of about 10W / m most of the 3528 light bar can be cut every 3 LED modules, or 50mm (2 ") 300 chip reels and 25mm (1" 600 chip scroll). SMD3528 a single color lights with lighting solutions. In terms of price, they are cheaper options.
In addition, the 5050 is in both monochrome and RGB color change models. Change the color version requires an additional control, but can produce millions of different colors, so finding the right shade or combination is a simple matter of programming.
which car should i change to?
Hi,
I’m considering changing my car and would like some advice/opinion on the best car to change to…
Some of my history first…
Currently I drive a 2004 1.6L Focus Hatchback (with approx 64k on the clock)… this car is OK-ish…
I find that the handling is good on twisty roads, fuel economy is okay, but the gearing and lack of power make this car exceptionally poor on motorways for my liking. I also really dislike the feeling of ‘substance’ to the car… it feels like a soda can in terms of solidity and the intruding road noise is very annoying when cruising at higher speeds.
Cars (owned) in the past (with brief points) have been:
1976 Austin Mini,
- very unreliable,
+ quirky
+ I loved older minis
1993 Rover Mini Tahiti 1.3,
+ Awesome fun on country roads (probably most fun car i’ve driven on these roads)
+ No fun on motorways
- not reliable enough for the distances I drove..
1999 Peugeot 206 Hatchback 1.4 GLX,
+ Great roadholding (with quality tyres)… i remember doing between 70-100 on the motorway with roads in heavy snow, no probs.
+ awesome air-con (perhaps I just got lucky on this)
- temperamental sensors
- not particularly solid feeling
+ Good/comfortable seats.
2001 Astra 1.6 16V SXI Hatchback
+ better pickup from stand-still than previous cars
- had a really crap gearchange from 1st to 2nd, though I guess I was unlucky that a gear-collar was knackered
+ nice chassis,
- dodgy electrics (headlamps dimmed significantly while turning, and light switch module was very temperamental) etc..
1999 BMW E46 318i saloon
+ Loved the looks of this car (probably one of my personal favourite BMW shapes)
+ Loved the handling, motorway cruising, low ambient noise.
+ Solid-feeling
+ Good visibility, and general usability inside.
- Seats not very comfortable for (very long) cruises.
- Non-folding rear seats and small-ish boot more limited in practicality
2004 Ford Focus (Flight) 1.6 Hatchback
+ Nice handling on twisty roads
+ good sized boot
+ Okay fuel economy
- Poor acceleration (particularly in-gear 50-70/80)
- Feels of limited solidity/substance.
- Bad road noise intrusion whilst cruising.
I’ve experience of several other cars (mostly american whilst on business) also… (and have also driven an old naturally asiprated diesel before)..
My place of work is moving and i’ll soon be doing between 15-20k+ miles per year… and am thinking of switching to (an older) diesel car… I’m a bit tired/bored of the Focus, though don’t have much money to spend, which limits my options somewhat… also I like the idea of having to stop at the pumps less for refuelling and that Diesel is suited to my (mainly) motorway cruising.
The cars i’m considering are:
- 1999-2001 Audi A4 Tdi (115 or 130 bhp variants)
- 1998-2001 BMW 320td E46
- 2000-2003 VW Passat (115 or 130 bhp variants)
Given my limited budget (and the age of the cars) the mileage is likely to be in the regions of about 95-150k on the clock… (lower for the more recent Passat’s, higher for the Audi/BMW)…
I’ve read the Passats are pretty reliable, which is something i’m interested in, but are very boring on the road…. since i’m a reasonably spirited driver (and do some twisty road driving at weekends where i live) this isn’t ideal… The A4 and BMW seem to have some noted serious problems… if i was getting a BMW i’d be looking to have the swirl flaps removed ASAP (particularly since it will not be eligible for any warranty schemes due to mileage and/or age)… though don’t know where a reliable independent would do this work (in Scotland)
My heart sways towards a BMW, since i’ve known (and loved) them in the past, but sounds like there can be costly repairs around the corner… if i got the swirl flaps sorted, do I have much else to worry about other than the turbo going (and regularly maintenance items).. or should I go for one of the others etc… ? Or are the others a better bet… if so, why?
Thoughts/Advice welcome…
Thanks for the comments so far… I’ve sat (while on a trip in Canada) in someone’s turbocharged MINI, and (in the extreme icy-cold) I was very impressed by the power and manoeverability, though probably the cost and the lack of rear boot space makes it a no-go (sadly… as they seem wonderful performers)…
Haven’t considered the Golf Tdi, I was looking more at the saloons for the solid/weighty feel of the, could I expect the same from the VW hatchback?
’93 Saturn SL2 hard starting while cool, cooling fan coming on while engine is cool?
ok, i tried to start my car after work today (3:30 am, about 70 degrees and 60% humidity) it hadn’t run for about 8 hours, and when i went to start it, it would crank and but not start. it seemed as if not enough fuel.. maybe too lean of a mixture? and something maybe related, my cooling fan kicked on when it was at about normal operating temp… i had my friend try to start it. he got it to start about ten minutes after our first attempt. when he cranked it, i heard a rattling sound from the passenger side maybe coming from the belt.. when it finally does start, if i ease up on the gas peddle, it sounds like it want to die, and shakes like crazy. but if i floor it, the RPM slowly rises until about 1.5k then shoots up to the rev limiter like normal. however, after a while, it will run like nothing is wrong… can anyone tell me what the heck is going on? happens now everytime i try to start… also, im not sure if this is related, but i get a code 26 (quad core module) when at a stop or coming to a stop. not often tho. seems to happen more often when the ambient temp is higher.
Recent repairs:
A/C compressor, 1 of 2 coolant temp sensors (bottom one), power steering pump.
anymore info needed, email me please!
open loop circuit malfunction.
Toss the other coolant sensor in there, your fans shouldnt be coming on.
Also check your fuel pressure, what you describes sounds liek a bad fuel pump.
Computer upgrades help?
hello, im trying to get a new cpu more ram and a new video card for my computer so i can play games better, im not to good with computers and im not to sure if these upgrades will work with my computer just wondering if you could tell me if it will work.. CURRENT PARTS
MOTHERBOARD:
MS-7215 K8n Neo4
Maximum Memory Module Size4096 MB
Memory Slots 4
Maximum Capacity 16384 MB
South Bridge NVIDIA nForce4 MCP Revision A3
North Bridge NVIDIA nForce4 Revision A3
System Slots 5 PCI
CPU:
AMD athlon(tm) 64 Processor 3200+
Number of CPU(s)One Physical Processor / One Core / One Logical Processor / 64 bits
CPU Full NameAMD Athlon(tm) 64 Processor 3200+
CPU NameAMD Athlon 64 3200+
CPU Code NameVenice
Platform NameSocket 939
RevisionDH-E3
Technology90 nm
Instructions MMX (+), 3DNow! (+), SSE, SSE2, SSE3, x86-64, NX
Original Clock2000 MHz
Original System Clock200 MHz
Original Multiplier10.0
CPU Clock2010 MHz
System Clock201.0 MHz
HT Link1005.2 MHz
Core 0 Speed2010.4 MHz
Core 0 Multiplier10.0
L1 Data Cache64 KBytes
L1 Instructions Cache64 KBytes
L2 Cache512 KBytes
MEMORY: ( I HAVE 2 OF THESE)
Manufacturer GEIL
Party Number CL25-3-3DDR 400
Capacity 512MB
Memory Type DDR (PC3200)
Speed 220Mhz
Supported Frequencies 166 Mhz, 200Mhz
Memory Timmings 2-3-3-5-0 at 166Mhz, at 2.5Volts (CL-RCD-RP-RAS-RC)
Memory Timmings 2-3-3-5-0 at 200Mhz, at 2.5Volts (CL-RCD-RP-RAS-RC)
Data Width 64bits
Manufacturing Date 2005, week 24
EPP SPD support NO
XMP SPD support NO
VIDEO CARD
Display Adapter NVIDIA GeForce 7800 GT
Video Processor GeForce 7800 GT
Video memory size 256 MBytes
Adapter DAC Type Integrated RAMDAC
BIOS String Version 5.70.02.13.12
BIOS Date 07/15/05
Display Driversnv4_disp.dll
Driver Version6.14.11.7813
Driver Date2008-09-16 23:55:00
Inf File Nameoem50.inf
Inf Section nv4_G7x
THE PARTS I WANT TO UPGRADE TO
MEMORY ( I WANT TO ADD 2 OF THESE TO MY COMPUTER)
GeIL DDR Value Dual Channel Kit
PC3200 DDR-400 Dual Channel Kit – CAS 3-8-4-4
-184pin, Non-ECC, Un-buffered, high performance DDR memory modules.
-GeIL 5ns 32×8 Density DDR Chip.
-6 Layers Ultra Low Noises Shielded PCB.
-Optimized SPD for Dual Channel DDR motherboards.
-Blue Aluminum Heat Spreader.
-2.55V-2.65V
CPU
AMD Athlon X2 7850, 2.8Ghz, 3Mb Cache, 95w, Black Edition
• AMD Athlon™ X2 7850 Processor Specifications:
• Processor Core Frequency: 2.8GHz
• X2 7850 Black Edition Tray OPN: OPN# AD785ZWCJ2BGH
• X2 7850 Black Edition PIB OPN: OPN# AD785ZWCGHBOX
• L1 Cache Sizes: 64K of L1 instruction and 64K of L1 data cache per core (512KB total L1 per processor)
• L2 Cache Sizes: 512KB of L2 data cache per core (1MB total L2 per processor)
• L3 Cache Size: 2MB (shared)
• Total Cache (L2+L3): 3MB
• Memory Controller Type: Integrated 128-bit wide memory controller *
• Memory Controller Speed: Up to 1.8GHz with Dual Dynamic Power Management
• Types of Memory Supported: Support for unregistered DIMMs up to PC2 8500 (DDR2-1066MHz)
• HyperTransport 3.0: One 16-bit/16-bit link @ up to 3.6GHz full duplex (1.8GHz x2)
• Total Processor-to-system Bandwidth: Up to 28.5 GB/s bandwidth [Up to 17.1GB/s memory bandwidth (DDR2-1066) + 14.4GB/s (HT3)]
• Packaging: Socket AM2+ 940-pin organic micro pin grid array (micro-PGA)
• Fab location: GLOBALFOUNDARIES Fab 1 module 1 in Dresden, Germany (formerly AMD Fab 36)
• Process Technology: 65-nanometer DSL SOI (silicon-on-insulator) technology
• Approximate Transistor count: ~ 450 million (65nm)
• Approximate Die Size: 285 mm2 (65nm)
• Max Ambient Case Temp: 73o Celsius
• Nominal Voltage: 1.2-1.25 Volts
• Max TDP: 95 Watts
VIDEO CARD
XFX 9800GT 512meg 256Bit DDR3 Dual Link DVI TV-Out Model
Bus Type: PCI-E 2.0
GPU Clock: 600 Mhz
Memory Bus: 256
Memory Type: DDR3
Memory Size: 512 MB
Memory Speed: 1800 Mhz
Thermal Solution: FANSINK
Minimum Power Supply Requirement: Watt
Outputs: HDTV, Dual-Link DVI
Card Dimensions: 9″ x 4.376″ x 0.75″
Just wondering if you could tell me if that would fit in my computer because i really need some upgrades some my stuff is all old, thank you very much in advance
Hello,
And your system seems like a well built mid end gaming machine.
The parts you mention that will work are: The video card, and the memory. I’m sure about the CPU upgrade.
I hope this information was useful to you. Best answer, please!
If you can afford it go for the new MINI COOPER a friend of mine has one & thinks its the dogs B#####ks, never had a spot of bother with it, goes like a bat out of hell, grips the road like S##t to a blanket. & of course its a BMW, not that i like beema’s but this one is superb