How to Make Solar Panels And Cut Back On Electricity Bills!
If you are looking for how to make solar panels, then you have come to the right site. Making solar panels is not as complicated as you may think; all you need is a guide to follow. However, you must be careful as most these guides don't provide you with the exact step-by-step instructions and detailed diagram to help you build a solar panel. Solar power is a cheap, reliable and renewable source of energy. If you are looking to cut back your electricity cost, then you must consider making your own solar panel. This piece of writing will give you a general idea on how to make solar panels or build a windmill turbine to generate your own electricity.
With the right guide, building your own solar panel is going to be an absolute walk in the park. I have read and researched several manuals on how to make solar panels, but only a few really provide step-by-step instructions and detailed diagrams, making it extremely difficult to make your own solar panel. It's important to take certain factors into consideration before choosing a particular guide to help you make solar panels or windmills.
a First, you must try to get a general idea about how the entire system works to produce electricity.
a The guide you pick must offer a detailed description on the components needed to make solar panels or wind turbines and must be readily available at your nearest hardware store. You must as well ensure that you can purchase all the components for around 0 - 0. If the guide does not have the following feature, then consider purchasing a different one.
a One other important thing to consider is to ensure that the manual is a step-by-step guide. The author of the manual must assume that you are a novice; because this is the only way the guide would have a detailed instruction.
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I need a schematic on how to make your own Power Plant using coil and magnets. Where can I go or do you have1?
You will build a power plant that meets the following criteria: starts with a primary energy source (hydropower,windpower) You may not use any other sources of electricities like batteries. The source should spin a turbine. The turbine must be attached to a generator that YOU MADE! You may not use a store bought generator. The generator should be attached to a small light bulb. The power plant must be stable and well made and work safely.
How does one MAKE his own electricity?
This week I got my annual electricity bill and report. It said that I consumed 5400kwh of power in 2006. I would like to know if it’s possible to make your own electricity or at least save it from somewhere. Because I think my electricity bill is TOO big for my budget, help me to save ok!
you cannot make electricity without a large cash investment in equipment – solar panels, generators etc…
conservation will save you money
get those new light bulbs that save electricity
have your power company check your house out to see where you can save energy
Look up “alternators” on science project websites. Proper alternators use carbon brushes to connect a spinning coil inside a half cylindrial magnet. For a science project, the easiest apparatus is just a bar magnet spinning inside a fixed coil. The magnet spins, and produces alternative current in the coil. Use a diode to convert the AC into DC.
How to make your own Dynamo?
To make a dynamo, can one basically take any electrical motor, manually turn the armature and then will it then start generating electricity?
How to make your own energy?
I just saw a video about using a bike to run a motor to create electricity. I’m wondering where I could get a motor for a project like that and what exactly to do. Any questions just ask.
you will need a DC brush motor to make your dynamo. any old motor will not work unless the motor is the brush DC motor with permanent magnets. if it is an AC motor, or a Stepper motor or a Brushless DC motor you are turning, you will get nothing out that is useful.
How do you make your own power or electricity so you don’t have to pay a big bill?
explain the turbine engine power. E-mail me for more details
You can do it in a couple of ways.
You can use an automotive alternator, but you need a car battery as well to energize the armature for it to work. The output is going to be 12 volts.
Alternately, you can take a permanent magnet motor, such as from an electric treadmill. and you can find those on free lists, or at garage sales. There should be a bunch available in Feruary or march on places like Craigs list for free.
I have encountered 2 types, one is an open frame AC motor, which is not suitable for this type of project, the other type is a permanent magnet DC motor that is rated for 90 volts, but more likely at pedaling speed, you will see about 24 to 30 volts, so you need to determine what your output voltage will be, and once that is known, you need a regulator to control the output voltage to your useful range and below. They are not too complicated, and within a week or so, I should actually have a regulator circuit up on my blog by then would be adaptable to your plan with the bike.
http://altenciruits.wordpress.com
If you strip the rear tire off, you can take a poly v belt from a newer car that fits on the pulley grooves of the treadmill motor and lay that belt in on the drop seat portion of the wheel where the tire was, but make sure to put a few layers of athletic tape down first to cover the spoke heads- you want to remove the rubber liner strip first. If you are not able to fabricate a means of adjusting the position of the motor for tension, you can fabricate a tensioner much like the one in use on most cars today to keep tension on the belt. You would locate it on the slack side of the belt, or in your project on the upper part of the loop. where the belt leaves the motor and heads back to the top of the wheel.
That method of mounting also works for the alternator idea as well.
Before you make connections to anything other than a light bulb, verify the polarity of the terminals to know which one will be positive and which one negative.
It is as simple as that once you manage to secure the bicycle in a manner that keeps it from tipping.
You can pay a “big bill” to buy a wind turbine or solar panels.
Later:
To Tareq: It won’t work.
The reason it won’t work is that the COP figures you’re using, while realistic for refrigeration units as they are typically applied, are not valid for the setup you’re describing. They are only valid when the condenser coil is in free air at some specified temperature, *with adequate air circulation*.
In other words, the heat from the condenser coil is dumped at a relatively low delta-T, spread over lots and lots of air.
The COP > 1 is really only possible because the outside air where we dump the heat is pretty darn voluminous, and it’s easy to move a lot of it through our evap coils.
You’re proposing to do something entirely different: put the heat from the condenser coil to work. The coil will no longer be in free air, instead its heat will be captured and used to provide energy for the next stage in the cycle, which will turn it into electricity and use it to power the first stage, with some left over. Right? Great idea! Only about 50,000 people have thought of it (to judge by what I read on the various “free energy” forums).
The trouble is that this breaks all the rules under which that greater-than-1 COP was measured.
I understand why it SEEMS as if it will work. A typical refrigeration system might have a COP of 4 or so: It takes a watt of power in to move 4 watts of heat. Now if we can just take that 4 watts of heat and use it to power that same refrigeration system…
The trouble is that if you do that – if you try to capture the heat output from the first stage and put it to work – it will be far, far more difficult to get the heat from the first stage out of its condenser coil and into the next stage. Under those conditions it will take a lot more energy input to the compressor motor and whatever else is in that first stage. The COP of the first stage will fall well below 1. Oops.
THAT is basic thermodynamics, and the sooner you learn it, the less time you will waste on things that don’t work.
> The same cycle I explained will produce 9.85 Kw which will
> be extracted to produce super heated fluid
Ah, you want “super heated fluid”? Well that would be a good idea – if possible – because your second stage would be grossly inefficient (due to Carnot) if run on a low delta-T heat source.
Unfortunately for you this touches on WHY a refrigeration system with a COP greater than 1 is not going to be able to power itself, and why it is not violating conservation of energy: It is not emitting “super” high temperatures.
Rather it creates a high temperature difference on the “cold side”, but in a small volume of air, in exchange for a low temperature difference on the output, “hot side”, in a much larger volume of air.
This is an increase in net entropy, enough so that it is indeed possible to move 4 watts of heat with 1 watt input to the system. The increase in entropy is what “pays for” the apparent gain. We aren’t really getting something for nothing – far from it!
Now… it IS possible to tune an evaporative heat transfer cycle so that it produces a higher temperature difference on the output side than it started with on the input side. But then (because you are decreasing entropy) the COP will fall below 1.
You can’t win, you can’t break even, and you can’t get out of the game.
In case you haven’t been convinced yet, here is another way to think of it:
Suppose you go to a working a/c unit and put a thermometer in the heated air coming off of the condenser coil. (I’ll wait.)
You will likely find that it is not very much warmer than the surrounding air.
Let’s assume it’s 30 degrees C, on a day when the ambient air temp is 20 C. Convert these to Kelvin and you have 293K and 303K.
Then the absolute maximum possible efficiency with which you could recover energy from that exhaust heat is given by Carnot:
1 – (Tlow / Thigh) = 1 – (293/303) = about 3.4 percent!
So, ok… One watt into the a/c unit, 4 watts of waste heat out. But because this is such low grade heat (not much hotter than ambient) it is flatly impossible to use much of it. Of that 4 watts you can’t recover more than about an 0.14 watts! This obviously will NOT be enough to keep the first stage running.
That is why an a/c unit with a COP > 1 is not giving you something for nothing, and can never so much as power itself, let alone anything else.
Again… yes, you can tune an a/c cycle to produce a larger temperature differential than it starts with… and then the COP drops to below 1. So you can’t ‘win’ that way either.